The Cottage industries of India, as we all know, are the building pioneers of the Indian Economy, right from the British Era. And, one such emerging cottage industry of the country is handloom weaving, especially from the Benarasi Handloom Industry!
In fact, did you know, that more than 15,00,000 home – based weaving industries were developed in North and Eastern parts of the country post -independence? Pretty surprising, right?
So, the Indian Handloom Industry actually dates back to the Indus Valley civilization. In fact, back then, the fabrics, mostly ‘Mulmul’, ‘Benarasi Brocade’ and ‘Jamawar ’ were quite soft and airy. Then, in the 14th Century, the Mughals brought handloom weaving to Benaras. And finally, the Benarasi Handloom Industry became popular than ever, producing Paisleys, Kalka, Geometric & Brocade motifs like none other!
But though the workers created stunning silk brocade with fancy silver and gold zari work, the own ‘Karkhanas’ (workshops) were pretty sad places. That’s why the community’s gloomy vibe is still a mystery today. And today, we’ll see how we can reduce their plight a bit through my, Priyal Patel’s proposed architectural thesis!
Top Insights
- Top Insights
- Benaras, the Abode of the Benarasi Handloom Industry
- The Benarasi Handloom Industry Karigar’s Plea
- Stitched Stories, Fragile Foundations: Conversations on Weaver Housing Realities
- Unfolding the Truth of the Benarasi Handloom Industry Karkhana and Life at Mahaulla
- Actions Taken by the Authorities
- Design Philosophy for the Proposed Benarasi Handloom Industry
- Design Development of the 'Karkhanas' of the Benarasi Handloom Industry
- FAQs
- Conclusion
Benaras, the Abode of the Benarasi Handloom Industry
Onto the similar foregrounds, the Benaras Handloom Industry is quite impactful since the last 400 years. Basically, it has served for livelihood of more than 75% of the population. I mean, Benaras is already a city engraved with myriad history, art, culture, food and street stories, right? And the Benarasi handloom industry is no different.
In fact, it consists of Muslim weavers and is developed as a legacy of their ancestors, continued by successive generations. However, they’re dealing with some tough times right now because the modern weaving industry is taking advantage of their traditional know-how. Plus, their homes are a complete mess, with no proper services and utilities.
Fun Fact: Authentic Benarasi fabrics have a specialized ‘Geographic indication (GI)’ tag, to ensure authentic weaves and purity of the silk & zari.
Silk So Fine, You’ll Feel Divine!
Discover the beauty of Benarasi silk sarees—shop through our link and turn heads wherever you go!
The Benarasi Handloom Industry Karigar’s Plea
Benarasi sarees are undoubtedly in full-swing, but the laid-back attitude towards their weavers has pushed them to live in pretty rough conditions! Like, some live in poorly ventilated houses, some live in cramped spaces, while a few others have no water or sanitation facilities. Thus, many weavers are moving out to the outskirts of the city.
Needless to say, this transition has really put the Benarasi handloom industry at risk. Basically, the craft in Benaras is dying out since many traders take advantage of weavers, paying them less. Plus, more people are switching to power looms because they’re quicker and cheaper.
In fact, Handloom fabrics take about 1 to 2 months to make. And, power loom fabrics? Well, just 5 to 6 hours. Thus, most Benarasi handloom industry weavers are losing of work like anything! And eventually, they end up living in cramped spaces, using the same area for both home and weaving.
Fun Fact: Each hand-crafted Banarasi saree can have over 100,000 threads running through it, with each layer and pattern painstakingly crafted by hand.
Stitched Stories, Fragile Foundations: Conversations on Weaver Housing Realities
Furthermore, I even chatted with a family of four weavers to understand the tough situations they deal with.
Priyal : “So, since when are you working in this profession?”
Karigar : “We work under our Grihastha Sahab (master weaver) since the last 5 years. Initially, my father used to work for Grihastha Sahab”
Priyal : “What are your working hours during the day? Does it suffice well to your family?”
Karigar : “We are made to work for 8 to 12 hrs a day with a pay that equals to a daily wages labor!”
Priyal : “Chachiji, how do you contribute to the craft?”
Karigar’s Wife: “Trust me, we do feel the burden of both the house and the handloom work like anything. But sadly, we do not get paid well even after working for 6–8 hours a day”
Trust me, I was a bit shocked & taken aback by this response. Something really shook me to the core. For the first time, the poverty check in India hit me hard! And yes, I was truly speechless, but eventually gathered some strength to continue my research.
Between Threads and Ties: The Cost of Craftsmanship
Priyal : “So, how do you get time to spend with your children and family after so much workload?”
Karigar’s wife : “We do not get much time to spend with our children due to excessive workload and lower profits. Hence, our children usually end up in anti-social activities and loiter around!”
Trust me, I was stunned to hear this! Like, the kids in the Benarasi Handloom Industry community are missing out on school just because their families just don’t earn enough! Simply shocking, isn’t it?
The wife continued, “We make about 500 to 2000 rupees for each saree, and it usually takes us 2 to 6 months to finish one. Once it’s done, we sell it to Gadidars, who eventually forward them to the market.”
At that time, the Karigar added, “We end up losing most of our profits to Gadidars and Grihasta! That’s why we don’t encourage our kids to stick with this job. I don’t want them to fight for respect and money like we do.”
Hence, is it really possible to keep the true spirit of the Benarasi Handloom industry while turning a blind eye to how the craftsman is treated?
Unfolding the Truth of the Benarasi Handloom Industry Karkhana and Life at Mahaulla
I started my study by checking out how people live and work in the Benarasi Handloom Industry community, especially in the older neighborhoods like Bajjardiha, Madanpura, Lallapur, and Vishwanath Gali.
And eventually, I figured out the main reason behind the cramped worker housing – “subdivision”. So basically, most plots in the Benarasi worker community are split into smaller areas for different family members, which means smaller homes. Plus, since textile businesses are treated as residential, there’s not much space to balance work and home life in any karigar house.
And surprisingly, only a quarter of the space was used for living, while the rest was for handloom stuff. In fact, a lot of family members ended up having breathing problems and health issues because of these dirty living conditions.
Actions Taken by the Authorities
Now, as we all know, organizations like the Varanasi Weavers & Artisans Society (VWAS) and Rajiv Awas Yojna are making life better for weavers. Still, they haven’t solved all the problems of the community and the craft completely. Plus, there isn’t a single habitat improvement scheme in the olden town, leading to mass displacement of the Benarasi Handloom Industry weavers.
So basically, the way we plan things in the crowded parts of the old town these days has caused a lot of wild development and bad land use. It’s also created religious divisions, pushing handloom weavers to move out to outer places like Lohta and Kotwa.
Design Philosophy for the Proposed Benarasi Handloom Industry
Hence, my architectural goal is to boost handloom weaving by connecting weavers with the community in the old town. This way, folks can really appreciate the hard work of the weaving community in keeping their craft alive. So basically, the process might include creating a fun journey that brings the art right onto the streets of Varanasi.
Like first, we’ll start our trip by taking a chill walk along Dashshwamedh Ghat to soak up the vibe really well. After that, we’ll swing by Vishwanath Gali to explore some awesome things like jewelry, wooden flutes, and perfumes. To wrap it up, we’ll check out a weaver’s workshop and give handloom weaving a shot.
Next, the designed path will take us towards the Kashi Vishwanath temple to explore some real extremes of culture. Then comes the Manikarana Ghat, where the burning pyres remind you how fleeting life can be. Finally, we’ll wrap up your journey at Dashashwamedh Ghat, enjoying the peaceful Ganga Aarti for some spiritual vibes.
Design Development of the ‘Karkhanas’ of the Benarasi Handloom Industry
The proposed architectural intervention might begin on a brownfield site, like Vishwanath Gali. Like first, we’ll check out the current homes and workshops of the weaver community and create a shared workshop and retail space for local vendors. Basically, the idea is to design cozy homes and workshops that fit right into the old town vibe.
Like eventually, I plan to focus on the tangible aspects while keeping the weaver community safe in the old city. Moreover, I also plan to go a bit organic and highlight the Benarasi art and architecture rightly.
In fact, as architects, we must try to be sensitive towards the Benarasi Handloom Industry workers approach, and try to fit in! Like, the proposed interventions should obviously match the city’s style, culture, and climate.
And here are some tips for the same:
- First, we can go for classic Benarasi Jali and Mughal architecture patterns for the windows, screens, and facades.
- Next, we can design a water courtyard like those found in Benaras. Moreover, we can also add some water features, like fountains or little ponds for a cooler microclimate.
- We can limit the color palette to deep reds, royal blues, and golds, just like the shades you find in Benarasi sarees
- Furthermore, we can also bring in colors and textures of the sacred Ganges River. Perhaps some wavy patterns on the floors, wall art, or lighting, or even a stepped water court.
- We can also incorporate stepped structures, terraced designs, and little staircases, just like the famous Benarasi ghats.
- Finally, we’ll choose local sandstone, terracotta, and brass, and team up with Benarasi artisans to add a real regional vibe.
Moreover, here’s a quick sneak peak on how my proposed ‘Benarasi Handloom Industry Karkhana’ might improve the living & working conditions of all its weavers:
| Existing Conditions at the Karkhana & Mahaula | Design Solutions at the Proposed Karkhana |
| Poor light and ventilation due to narrow window openings | Larger windows with partial shading for better light and ventilation |
| Multi-functional spaces due to lack of domestic area in home base industry | Partial segregation between dwellings and karkhanas |
| Lack of space to carry out washing and dry of threads before weaving | Provision of semi open spaces to carry out pre-weaving activities and dry ready fabrics |
| Absence of community spaces for the weavers in Mahaulla | Provision of facilities like Anganwadi for the children and semi open Gathering spaces |
| Indoor informal activities and shops | Semi open workshops and retail to envision the production activities |
FAQs
The Benaras Handloom Industry is primarily known for ‘Brocade,’ ‘Kadhua,’ ‘ Phekwa,’ & ‘Kadhiyal’ weaves with elaborate patterns, floral motifs, Mughal art, and religious symbols.
Traditional Benarasi sarees usually use ‘resham’ or ‘zari’ from metallic gold or silver coating for their detailed and luxurious finish.
Conclusion
So as you saw, my study looks at how handloom weavers are moving from the old town to the outskirts of Benaras and how this affects their social and living conditions.
So, my architectural goal is to create a better living space for them and their families by redesigning their homes and workspaces. Eventually, the project would make them feel included and secure in the Varanasi community while keeping the Benarasi Handloom Industry alive! It’s a literally win-win!
Also, do you have any more ideas about planning and policies for the Benarasi weavers? If yes, drop us a message in the comments below!
Meet the Author:
Priyal Patel
Priyal Patel is a Fifth year student at MITADT University School Of Architecture. She is an architecture enthusiast, an observer and a learner with the passion to convey a story behind every design innovation. Eager to explore the amalgamation of nature into built form through writing. Aiming to draw inspiration from human demeanor towards urbanism and enhancing creative and critical thinking.